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TUTORIAL:

I usually do a rough sketch first, which is then traced with my fantastic little lightbox several (or many...) times; refining, cleaning, until I get the final, clean-line version.

Depending on what I want to achieve, stylistically, I will either do some kinda rough torso/face studies which are then cleaned up, or I'll just start drawing clean lines. Usually for more realistically-proportioned things, I will sketch out the body/proportions roughly, then go over it again to do the details, but if I'm just going on a whim, and don't care about proper proportions (which is, admittedly, quite frequently...), I will just start drawing, usually at the eyebrow, forehead and nose area, and continuing the head/shoulders, etc.

Click here to see the progression of the 'Sirius Falls' drawing from sketches to final.

Click here to see the progression of the 'Follow The Spiders' drawing from sketches to final.

I draw inspiration from many artists, both contemporary and not. Here's some examples of some of my absolute favorites:

Edward Gorey, Tamara de Lempicka, Jan Toorop, Mercer Mayer, Hilary Knight, Aubrey Beardsley, Patrick Nagel, Brett Helquist, Michael Parkes, the Pre-Raphaelites, Greek & Roman art, art nouveau, art deco, tattoo art, and lots of other artists I can't remember at the moment. :)

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For sketching and shading, mechanical pencil, with lead size ranging from .3mm to .9mm. My favorite brand at the moment is GraphGear 500, shown above.	Tombo pens, much thinner inked and more like watercolors than Copics. Good for blending or using over colored pencils, but show brushstrokes much more than Copics do. I don't use these very often.
For older outlined pictures, I used Micron pens, with sizes ranging from .005 to .8. I now use Copic fine-tipped black pens rather than Microns.	GODLY. Smooth, flawless coloring and blending. Gah... so wonderful. Also pricey, though, at $5 each, but well worth it.
Prismacolor pencils. The nicest colored pencils I've found.	Most artists I know prefer kneadable gray erasers, but for some reason, I prefer this kind. :B

As for paper, I usually just use regular old 8 1/2 x 11 inch computer printer paper, unless I'm using Copics, which works best on smoother ink paper, or smooth Bristol Board.


All of my old computer coloring was done with Adobe Photodeluxe, v. 2.0. I now have Photoshop, but have yet to do any real work with it.

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